Theo Randall

This restaurant serves really average Italian food at excessive prices. There are now so many better and diverse options to sample genuine and fairly priced Italian cuisine in London (from the young, trattoria style Bocca di Lupo to the mature but always great Latium), that I fail to see the point of patronising this venue.
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m.
Overall rating
Food 6 | Service 6 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 4
Wednesday, December 17, 2008

I was fortunate enough to be taken here, so this would be a slight unfair review because I didn't pay for my meal, we ordered from the a la carte and the food was superb, the ambience was nice and not too pedantic, the waiting staff were freindly and courteous but ideally should have been more attentive and more readily available.

What stould out to me was the fact that Theo Randall him self was in the kitchen and we even had the privelage of him coming to our table for a quick chat. In general people get too high above their station too quickly so it was refreshing to see he was in the kitchen cooking with his fellow chefs.

Altogether, an excellent venue, excellent food, but be prepared to spend at least £75 per head inc wine and service.
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Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 5 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 7
Thursday, December 11, 2008

I wrote a review, below, of Theo Randall back in September and after being invited back by a "friend" I have to say that I think the disappointing meal I had last time was a one off as this meal was as good as the last meal wasn't.

The secret of a great chef is to make a few simple ingredients into something so much more than their component parts; thus was a chicory root salad with anchovies and sherry vinegar. Salt, acid, and the crunch and subtle flavour of the chicory roots made for a stunning yet simple starter. The turbot I had for main was the best piece of turbot Ive ever had and possibly the best piece of fish Ive had, period! If there is a split second when fish is cooked perfectly then this had been cooked to that precision. As for dessert, Clementine sorbet, which looked like two very ordinary scoops of ice cream but was like the sweetest and ripest clementine exploding in your mouth with every mouthful.

The service on this occasion was also exemplary.

Im glad I went back and Im happy to admit to a "knee jerk" reaction after my last visit. I think I was disappointed as I do want to love this style of cooking and these quality of ingredients; and now I can. I will be back again and probably again....
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Andy Jones
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 8 | Value for money 8
Sunday, November 30, 2008

I really really really wanted to like my dinner here on Friday night. I'd been for lunch previously and had a really nice meal, so returning for the main event was something Id been looking forward to for some time. My anticipation was increased when the man himself appeared front of house but that was about as good as it got. The service was very poor. We were put in a corner and basically ignored. When we did manage to get someone to take a drinks order they didnt understand "Vodka and cranberry" so had to send over another member of staff to take the order. The drink was then taken to the wrong table.

The starters and pasta course were OK but compared to Zafferano were just not good enough for the money. The main course was the real problem; my pigeon was the most tender pigeon I have ever eaten but totally ruined by tiny chanterelle mushrooms that hadnt been properly washed and gave me gritty after gritty mouthful. The roasted (sic) potatoes were my comedy dish of the year so far. Imagine buying some cheap potato wedges from the freezer place Mum goes to, get your local chinese take away to make you a sweet & sour sauce with balsamic vinegar and then put far too many of them in a baking tray so that they steam rather than roast and you end up with a homogenised block of soggy spuds.

At no point did anyone come to check if everything was OK despite the fact that my dish sat there pretty much untouched. The service was so chaotic I felt that I might have to leave my chair and stand in the path of one of them. I eventually managed to get the sommelier who looked as disappointed as I did. He asked the manageress to come over who said she would point out my complaint to Theo. The response was as depressing as the rest of the evening. Apparently the mushrooms had been washed 3 times; well sorry, but you can wash them a 100 times but if you dont do it properly it doesnt make much difference; and apparently the potatoes are supposed to be like that. I can only assume that Theo had not seen them on their return to the kitchen, if he had, there's a real problem there. In fairness, the dishes plus the potatoes and our aperitifs were removed from the bill without question and the sommelier suggested a really nice wine. I told him I might come back for some more of his recommendations and some cheese. I REALLY wanted to like this meal but those potatoes will haunt me for a long time.....
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Andy Jones
Overall rating
Food 3 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 6 | Value for money 3
Saturday, September 27, 2008

I thought the food at Theo Randall was good, but the service was disappointing. We had to wait about five minutes for one member of our party to receive her starter and then mains were brought out to the table before cutlery had been replaced. Also, as a slow eater I can't bear it when plates are cleared whilst I am still eating and I would have appreciated it if the waiter had asked me if I minded before clearing away. When your surroundings are nice and the food is good, you expect the same from the service. For a restaurant that is supposed to be so nice I don't think I would recommend it to friends if they wanted to go somewhere special.
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Overall rating
Food 7 | Service 4 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Good food but shame about the service, which slightly tainted a rather enjoyable night out. The change in level of service was most notable when it was pointed out to one of the waiters that we were going for the set menu (a budgeted version that took advantage of a special offer on the restaurant) rather than ordering off the main menu. Again, this was highlighted to us when we noticed that other customers had their coats put away whereas we were just ushered into the restaurant.

Ignoring the service, the food is good, but make sure you're a "main menu" paying customer!
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Jolly
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 3 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 7
Monday, July 14, 2008

My partner and I enjoyed a delightful meal at Theo Randall last night; we went for the special offer of three courses (and a glass of wine) for £25 and found excellent value for money.

Although the restaurant has a slightly 'hotely' feel (I suppose not to unreasonable for a restaurant in a hotel), it did lack some atmosphere. The service was friendly and professional and the food achieved what it aimed; simple, rustic, well executed Italian dishes. The standout dish was the sirloin stake (Controfiletto di manzo) with mushrooms and salsa verde, perfectly cooked the textures and flavours worked perfectly. The smoked eel, Anguilla affumicata, was also very good, although not spectacular.

We will certainly be visiting again.
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Anthony Burke
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 7 | Value for money 10
Tuesday, July 01, 2008

'You needn't tell me that a man who doesn't love oysters and asparagus and good wines has got a soul, or a stomach either. He's simply got the instinct for being unhappy highly developed...' [Hector Hugh Munro, author]

I am in awe of Theo Randall. I had one of the most flavoursome dishes this year in his eponymous restaurant, a sullen Mayfair crypt, late Friday. After bruschetta which almost rivalled my friend Enrica’s, laced with sweet cherry tomatoes and olive oil so fresh it was almost a caricature, this seasonally inclined genius served antipasti which left me with my tongue hanging free. The cause: a crisp bundle of British Asparagus, invigoratingly massaged with Anchovy Butter and Rosemary flecks, crowned with roughly Shaved pineapple evoking Parmesan. I attacked it with ergonomically perfect Bugatti cutlery. A taste of the soil and of the sea. The saltiness of the Parmesan accentuated the anchovy, softened by the creaminess of the butter. Reminiscent of Gentleman's Relish. This, combined with a forkful of my companion’s rich green and white asparagus risotto, left me pathetically poised to lick the plate. Enough of an incentive to inspire an ‘asparagus diet’.

Randall, as mentioned, cut his teeth at The River Café, with a sabbatical at Chez Panisse. Whilst lunch at Claridge’s is half the price of a meal at his former Hammersmith hangout, I sometimes furtively sneak an online peak at their bill of fare. I often manage to sample similar food at another ex-River Cafeian’s pub, Richard Stokes’s Three Horseshoes in Cambridge.

Anyway, a thoughtful offer allowed me affordable insight into the charm of gastronomically gentrified peasant food in an otherwise hateable hotel.

The grammatically questionable InterContinental, Mayfair was recently renovated to the tune of countless millions. Jellyfish tendril chandeliers loom nearly to the floor in the lobby. To the left, an appalling bar with slovenly deep chairs for shallow sitters. To the right, an automatically sliding door into Randall’s burrow. I would describe the windows of this slate dark quadrangle as ecclesiastical slits. The vast kitchen is just about visible through another incision in the Tate Modern style dark panel. Sunflowers, doomed never again to photosynthesise, dot the cube.Despite arriving early, we were swiftly seated by a glass partition, deeply etched with oversized blades of grass. To our right, courting Muslims whose dietary requirements were tolerantly deciphered by a courteous waitress.

Cuddled by a light leather rolling captain’s chair, I was much lower than my companion, who perched on a rouge banquette. A Bristol blue candle flickered.Two flutes of pear and gingerbread scented Billecart Champagne (the house still family owned) were poured to the tip, evoking an effervescent infinity pool. In the distance, under a rainbow print which looked like a Test Card, an American gent, scale of a whale, complained about the wine list lacking French focus. Whilst it has plentiful French bins, Italy is rightfully given prominence. Mark-ups are incidentally not as vertigenous as neighbouring hotels. The sommelier elegantly diffused his tensions without sounding remotely patronising.

Opposite, an Italian family, around a circular table, finished their desserts and wiped their mouths. Their youngest looked out of place in this stiff environment. Not that Theo Randall, hater of ‘formality and pretence’ seeks to ostracise. The aloof interior designer is to blame.

Following the eulogised asparagus javelins, the prima piatti: Handmade Spinach Ravioli with Sheep’s Ricotta. The irregular, light dough parcels, presented with no pretence, tasted green and wholesome. Freshly powdered parmesan was offered in a Wedgwood bowl, an appropriate metaphor for the restaurant: Italian staples served in a posh British place.The secondo piatti: medium rare Chargrilled Aberdeen Angus Sirloin with Portobello and Porcini Mushrooms lacquered with crisp, tangy, parsley dominated Salsa Verde and lemon. I had forgotten how delicious a squeeze of lemon on a thin steak is. The acidity helps break down the protein, as does a glass of wine. Rocket leaves added a tantalising spicy prickle. A youthful, shapely Montepulciano with a hint of nutmeg, was included in our offer, sipped from Riedel glasses.

White Peach Sorbet, peculiarly served in a brown bowl, retained texture and acidity. I decanted a little sparkling Moscato to cheer things up. I volunteered to gobble the handmade dark chocolate truffles, which bevelled the meal. They reminded me of my grandmother’s version and luxuriously melted urgently.

I felt maximum potential was coaxed from every ingredient, served by alert staff with saintly patience. The corporate surroundings and clattering, indiscreet acoustics tried mine, however.

Incidentally, on the subject of the River Café, I once read that the original formica River 'Caff' in Putney Bridge patiently fends a constant attack of callers seeking a reservation in the Hammersmith version...
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Douglas Blyde
Overall rating
Food 9 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 5 | Value for money 8
Monday, June 23, 2008

Went to Theo Randall last night for a friend's birthday and had a fantastic time. The food was superb and the service outstanding. Used the London-eating special offer - one of the best offers we've used. What made it even more special is that we were invited by the restaurant manager to tour the kitchens and meet Theo Rndall himself! I would recommend this restaurant to anyone and we will return.
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Nigel - View all reviews by this user
Overall rating
Food 10 | Service 10 | Atmosphere 10 | Value for money 10
Thursday, April 10, 2008

Canada Ahoy again.

After petrus the night before we did not expect too much from Theo's, as we were on a deal. However we were very surprised.

The restaurant itself is huge and very minimalist modern, like@venue to a certain extent. The welcome was warm and friendly and the service was excellent, our waitress refused to take an extra tip for herself instead of pooling the money.

The dining room for us was a little too bright but very comfortable.

The food was excellent, not on the same scale as the night before, but none the less very very good. The food on the deal is very simple and uncomlicated, which is as it should be with Italian dishes. The food was presented well and tasted excellent and was made with FRESH ingredients as it should be. With a couple of bottles of wine and tip the bill was $200 which was very very reasonable. Would definitely go again and would take the deal again in a heartbeat(the a la carte menu is pricey)
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Adam Shane
Overall rating
Food 8 | Service 9 | Atmosphere 9 | Value for money 10
Sunday, February 10, 2008